Hiking in Hawaii’s Halawa Valley on Molokai, far from any urban center, spectacular scenery, culture, and history come together.
The Ghosts of Christmas 2012
‘Twas the night before Christmas and not a creature was stirring, not one except a big ol’ blogger looking back on his year of travel. I feel blessed after such a wonderful year. From a road trip to Arizona, my first adventure of the year, to trips back home to the Midwest, and many points […]
Hawaii Whale Watching on Molokai
While whale watching in Hawaii I sprawled on the floor of the boat, having decided in a split second that it was better to fall backward than to go overboard into the ocean. The small boat was battered by thirteen-foot waves, rocking from side to side like some perverse cradle. But I was giggling on […]
The Making of the Iakona
The plate was set down in front of me. My eyes were wide. I was looking at the sandwich to end all sandwiches. It was more pork than any one pig should ever have, and there it was, piled beautifully high on focaccia bread, all for me and my greedy claws. We called it The […]
Hiking Through History to Kalaupapa
I was eating a ham sandwich in paradise. Squinting through the sun, I sighed contentedly at the imposing beauty of the world’s tallest sea cliffs. I could live here, I thought, setting down the sandwich to dig into a bag of chips. But would I really want to? No way, not with Kalaupapa National Historic […]
Hawaiian Lei Making on Molokai
I was making a real Hawaiian lei from a pile of plumeria flowers covering the table in front of me. They were piled high, more than enough for us to string several lei together without running out. But we had walked the dusty field surrounding the office building to pick out a handful of different colors. It was […]




